Europe in Winter

It may be too chilly to sit by the Seine, but right now Europe promises the best buy.
By Robb Mandelbaum, Money Magazine Contributing Writer


NEW YORK (Money Magazine) - It may be too chilly to sit by the Seine, but right now Europe promises the best buy for your travel buck

In mid-September, subscribers to Continental Airlines' weekend specials bulletins got a small surprise by e-mail -- a one-day-only fare sale. Milan, for instance, could be had for about $365 from New York, for travel between October and January.

But the real surprise was that deals to Europe were still around a week later, now offered by several airlines, and good for departures up to the beginning of April (and for stays of up to 30 days).

"Dollar for mile, Europe is your best bang for the buck this winter," says Tom Parsons, proprietor of the air-consolidator website BestFares.com. "I've never seen anything like it. When you can fly from New York to London cheaper than you can fly from New York to Charlotte, you just can't beat it."

Best Places to Vacation

• Palm Springs
• Berkshires
• Cocoa Beach
• Abaco Islands
• Cozumel
• Park City

Europe in winter, however, is a get-what-you-pay-for proposition. European cities are almost always best experienced on foot, and even Madrid is bitterly cold in February. Moreover, the farther south you go, the more that Europe's great improvised charms are found outdoors -- in the markets, at the sidewalk cafes and in the plazas, where friends gather in the early evening for conversation and a glass of wine or beer before heading off for dinner. In wintertime, that public life retreats inside.

Parsons believes that these bargain-basement fares will still be available in November. After New Year's, January and February fares might even drop, but he expects airlines to tighten up prices for travel after March 6.

Our advice: Buy now but don't travel; hold off for warmer weather in late March or early April.

For the best weather, keep to the south and near the sea. Rome will be more pleasant than Paris. Globus has a seven-night hotel package in Rome from $599 to $799 per person; when we tried to book a week at the same hotel for early April on our own, it totaled $1,100 per person (800-221-0090; globusandcosmos.com).

Sicily is likely to be warmer still. Lisbon -- one of the great, if overlooked, European capitals -- is comfortable, and Barcelona remains mild. Gate 1 Travel (800-682-3333; gate1travel .com) is offering air and four nights in Lisbon from $479 per person, plus about $100 in taxes.

If a cold-weather holiday is what you're after, a ski vacation in the Alps is within reach. We found fares from New York to Zurich from just $436.

And many people say this is the time of year when Venice is most beautiful -- a dusting of snow, fog blanketing the canals. The narrow streets are empty of visitors -- except, of course, when Carnival erupts in February in a blur of masks and feathers. When we checked, you could fly for $400, but book now, and don't be shocked by the room rates. Venice is never cheap, even in winter.

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For all your Luggage Needs :

Irv's Travel Tips

Your Health

Talk to your travel agent about any shots or health
precautions. Anything required?

If shots are required, plan in advance with your physician. This should enable you to avoid any side effects as you travel.

If medication is required, carry 2 sets, one in your luggage, and one with you.
Also keep prescription labels with you for replacement.

Some travel time should be devoted for Rest and relaxation. A travel pillow and/ or eye mask is very helpful.
Before and all through your journey drink plenty of
water and get a lot of rest. To readjust to the time zones, take short naps. This is the best help.

Check out the US State Department home page to see the latest updates on the country you are visiting, to be up to date on the health and political bulletins, and for other important travel information.

Etiquette

Be aware of language use, dining etiquette along with appropriate dress and other customs associated with where you are in the world. This will contribute greatly to the success of your trip.


Money, Documents, Passports

Copies of passports, visas, and any other important
documents should be made in case of loss or theft.
Some foreign currency should be purchased ahead of traveling abroad for ground transportation and tipping. You can stop by your local bank to exchange up a small amount of foreign currency before you travel abroad.
Click here to go to check the current foreign exchange rate for your travel destination.

Packing

Pack tightly. Packing loosely wastes precious space and causes clothes to wrinkle.
Use a divider shelf to separate accessories,irregularly shaped items, and shoes from your garments.

You may also want to stuff your shoes with underwear or socks so they won't be crushed during your travels.

Suits, dresses, shirts, and blouses should be packed in a plastic dry cleaner bags to limit wrinkling.
Roll pajamas, nightgowns, sweaters, and other casual wear to fill small spaces when possible, BUT don't cram your suitcase full. If you
have to force your luggage to close, remove a few items to prevent broken hinges or zippers along the way.

Try the "interweaving method" of packing for your next trip. Drape longer garments such as dresses and pants around the suitcase with the ends hanging over the sides. Then fold shorter items such as jackets,shirts and blouses around the longer garments so that the clothes cushion each other. Placing a piece of tissue paper between each layer of clothing will help prevent wrinkling.
Pack each item one at a time in a clockwise direction. When you have filled the bottom of the suitcase, begin the next layer packing each item in a counter clockwise direction. In this way, you will form one
complete package of your clothes, eliminating wrinkles and securing all of your contents.

Always carry your travel documents, medication,jewelry, traveler's checks, keys and other valuables in your hand luggage. These items should NEVER be packed in luggage you plan to check.
To avoid travel delays when you depart check with the Transportation Security Administration to verify that the items you are carrying on the plane are allowed onto the aircraft. You'll find a complete list of prohibited
items on TSA website.

Security

Lock your luggage to avoid accidental opening due to rough handling or cabin pressure, and carry the keys in your hand luggage.
Remove old claim checks to avoid confusing
baggage handlers about your current destination.

Identify your luggage both inside and outside with your name, address and telephone number, and make sure the outside tag is securely fastened to your luggage.

Airport security has changed dramatically since the tragic events of September 11, 2001. To ensure you get through security check points and to avoid travel delays,
be sure to check the Transportation Security Administration's Tips for Travelers and Consumers
before you fly.

Click here to save up to 60% on brand name luggage at Irv's Luggage Warehouse.

*The Sunday Edition*

Kathleen Peddicord

Local Intelligence
Sunday, September 28, 2003
Dear International Living Reader,

*** The Mexican government is one of the most successful developers of coastal property in the world. Cancun, Acapulco, the Costa Maya... Now their attention is on (and here's the tip) Playa Mujeres. I met a representative of Fonatur, the Mexican government agency responsible for that country's development-for-tourism efforts, last week. He told me this is the spot to watch. Cancun without the Spring Breakers. See here.

*** The Australian government cites the value to their country of the "Survivor" series filmed there at $2 billion. The current "Survivor" series, as you know, is showcasing someplace much closer to home for Americans: the Pearl Islands of Panama. Already travel agents report a surge in interest. The buzz is building.

*** In other news from that part of the world, a new 18-hole golf course and a 60-room hotel are both in the works in the town of Boquete in Panama's interior. Longtime readers of International Living will recognize the name of this place, one of our favorite spots in the country...destined (soon, we believe) to be much more than a small coffee town in the hills.

*** My husband, Lief Simon, called yesterday from San Martin, Argentina, to report, first, that it had snowed overnight and he was enjoying a beautiful morning...and, second, that this spot hides some of the most spectacular scenery on earth, snow-covered or not. He's looking at ranches for sale. Every one, it seems, he says, comes with a polo field. Prices, even on the doorstep of the best skiing this part of the world has to offer, are nearly irresistible when compared with, say, Aspen. More to come.

*** Speaking of my husband, as you may know already, he and I met on an International Living Discovery Tour to Ireland (where, as the fates would have it, we later moved together). In other words, I have a little experience with international romance. Thomas Chamberlayne, longtime friend and perpetual traveler, wrote this week with another take on the romantic side of globalization. Indeed, we'd asked Thomas to do a little research on the subject. He reports: "If a guy is looking for that someone special, he shouldn't limit himself to women within driving distance. Not in the 21st century. It's nutty. If a single man wants to meet his dream girl...one he would love to be married to...it's ridiculous to restrict the range of available possibilities." Thomas has spent the last six months interviewing agencies and attorneys with experience in this area, as well as many now happily married men who found love in some of the least likely places. We're compiling his data into a report we call, with the best of intentions, "How to Find a Foreign Wife." To be available soon. Watch this space.

Your editor, keeping an open mind,

Kathleen Peddicord
Publisher, International Living

ps . Editors' Choice

Recommended reading from the editors of International Living

Paris Confidential

Paris Confidential is not a first time visitor's Paris Tour book. It's a handbook for people who have already seen the Louvre, Eiffel Tower and Montmarte...and now they want to intimately know the heart and soul of Paris, lovingly revealed by long time expat residents who lead you through secrets of Paris--arrondissment by arrondissment--so you get to know The City of Lights and enjoy it like a sophisticated local.

Passport to Romance: The Ultimate Travel Writer's Course


As a freelance writer, you have the opportunity to visit the world's most romantic, exciting, and offbeat destinations. This program has been put together by colleagues of International Living for people interested in taking up the travel writer life.

Reinvent Yourself Overseas: New Ways To Live Work and Do Business Abroad

The world is bursting with extraordinary opportunities to live, work and do business abroad. Never before in the history of humanity has it been easier to seek work or set up a business overseas.

This Week in IL Postcards:

Monday, September 22--
The Caribbean Tiger
"The New York Times calls Trinidad the 'Caribbean Tiger.' It's referring to the island's prowess in business, raw materials, and industrial capabilities… With so much growth in business, Trinidad has been slow to capitalize on tourism, meaning its real estate market has remained affordable."

Tuesday, September 23--
Here Comes the Lake
"Seems like every three months, a major U.S. newspaper runs an article about the impending death of Lake Chapala…well, last week, during Mexico's independence celebration, we saw picnickers swimming in the lake and pleasure boats cruising by, closer to the foot of Ajijic's municipal dock than we've ever seen them."

Wednesday, September 24--
A Not-so-obvious Reason to go Gambling in Paris
"If you want to play James Bond for an evening, head to the Aviation Club in Paris."

Thursday, September 25--
Rebirth
"It had been more than a year since my last visit to this neighborhood, and I was struck immediately by the changes...by the level of activity…don't come expecting South Beach...but be ready to make the comparison in, say, another 5 or 10 years."

Friday, September 26--
How to Save 48% on One of the Best Hotels in Paris
"I am not a travel agent and I don't get anything out of what I'm about to tell you except that maybe I can encourage some of you Americans who have been waiting for things to settle down a bit to come visit me here in Paris."

* * *

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Morelia, Mexico

Living like a native in Mexico
by David Wix


The beautiful and rustic colonial city of Morelia, Mexico is located about halfway between Mexico City and Guadalajara, Mexico. Boasting a thriving population of approximately one million people, Morelia has everything from monuments and historic buildings to modern-day conveniences such as restaurants, shopping centers, movie theaters, universities, etc. Quite simply, she is one of the shining stars of Mexico.

But what makes Morelia, Mexico special is her people. Their backgrounds include native Indian, Spanish, and French as well as many other national origins. Collectively, their greatest asset is a tremendous personality filled with warmth and friendliness.


What Brought Me To Mexico

I have studied foreign languages and other cultures for most of my life. As a child, I spoke Spanish but quickly went on to study other languages. In 1996, I was taking classes at Central Washington University in Ellensburg, Washington. I wanted to obtain a degree in order to validate my business experience.

Then, one day a visiting international programs speaker addressed one of my history classes. She shared her experiences about living in the tiny island country of Sri Lanka (just south of India). This piqued my interest.

Since I was in a transitional period of my life and desiring a change, I did some research on nearby countries where I could go on an exchange program to re-establish my Spanish language skills. My school happened to have just such a program with Centro Mexicano Internacional (CMI) in Mexico that really appealed to my sense of adventure and deep interest in foreign cultures. In the Spring Quarter of 1997, I signed up and headed off to Morelia, Mexico.

Mexico is a magnificent country! Morelia was my home from March 1997 till August when I relocated to Guadalajara so that I could enroll in a more advanced Spanish language program. But even now, if given the choice of living in Morelia or Guadalajara, Morelia would win out.

The old city is vibrant, sporting a deep sense of culture and history dating back to the 1500's. Every day, on my way to school and back, I would walk past old Spanish colonial style buildings, statues, monuments, fountains, and parks, each telling a story about the past.

For instance, an aqueduct (El Acueducto in Spanish), built in the 18th century to supply the city with water goes right through the center of town (El Centro). I walked by this wonderful structure every time I strolled along the avenue (Calzada Fray Antonio de San Miguel) leading up to my school. Of course these water-bearing structures are common throughout much of Mexico.

Alongside the Calzada is a wide cobblestone pathway with rustic benches where I would sit and relax, read, or visit with my friends (the people in Mexico are very friendly). On one side of Calzada Fray Antonio de San Miguel are historic churches and schools. On the other side there are art galleries, shops, and a restaurant or two. All of the buildings are probably at least as old as the Acueducto (or maybe even older) and remain fairly well maintained.


Paying the bills in Mexico

When I first arrived in Mexico, I had to depend on financial aid from my college in America. About a week after arriving at my new school, I was asked to fill in for an ill professor to teach Mexican students enrolled in CMI's ESL (English As A Second Language) program. I quickly discovered that I loved teaching my Mexican students. The school seemed very impressed with my teaching skills, so they offered me a part-time job teaching English (all levels) and Linguistics classes.

I also began working in the school's computer laboratory as a supervisor in the evening after classes were finished for the day. Both of my positions together paid me about $3 per hour. Including the surplus from my financial aid, I lived on approximately $500 a month. Out of this $500, I paid for rent, food, entertainment, travel, and obligations I had back in the US. After taking care of my US expenses, I usually had about $300 or less left over for my day-to-day living expenses.

My monthly out-go was approximately: $50 rent, $150 food, $25 transportation, $25 clothing, $50 other personal expenses (laundry, haircuts, entertainment, etc). Of course most Americans probably think that one can't do too much on $300 - $400 per month. But it can be done if one doesn't have to worry about the expenses required to maintain a car.

Granted, money was tight at times, but I always managed to take in a movie at least a couple of times each month. And Mexico offers lots of free or low cost events such as concerts put on by some of the local schools or musicians. Movies, haircuts, and restaurant meals only cost me about $2.


Finding a place to live in Mexico

Even before I left the US, I researched Morelia's hotels on the Internet and obtained recommendations from several officials at my new school. The first place I found that I really liked and stayed at was the Mintzicuri Hotel at Vasco de Quiroga No. 227. At a rate of about $8 a night, the rooms were very clean and comfortable.

Within a week of arriving in Morelia my school's housing director, Charly (who is a dear, sweet lady), took me to look at some local apartments. I was able to find one for about $150 a month at the Posada de Villa located at Padre Lloreda No. 176. But after a few weeks I decided to see what I could find in the local newspaper. I found a quaint rooming house that for about $50 a month offered a nice room at Vincente Santa Maria No. 1925. When I went to take a look, I found a large, comfortable room complete with a bath shared by 3 other renters. We also had a mini refrigerator and cooking facilities in each room.


Day-to-day life in Mexico

I lived a basic, simple life in Morelia. I would stop at the local bakery and purchase rolls, bolillos (small loaves of bread), and galletas (large cookies) for breakfast on my way to school.

For lunch, I ate sandwiches and fruit at my school's snack bar. Meals were served along with friendly conversation.

Then, for supper I would either eat at a local café or buy a few groceries and prepare a meal in my room. My favorite item at the local cafés was milanesa, a thinly sliced beefsteak, all chopped up and mixed with fresh avocado and served with tortillas. Sometimes I would enjoy milanesa sandwiches along with other local dishes. If I cooked at home, I would usually have spaghetti or fruit and vegetables.

Usually, on weekdays, I took my Spanish classes and taught English from 8AM till 2PM. 2 to 4 was siesta time (break). Afterwards, I taught and worked in my school's computer lab from 4 to around 9PM. Suppertime was after 9pm. This routine is typical throughout Mexico. Then, on Saturdays, I taught classes half-day. I then devoted the rest of my weekend to either resting or doing other personal activities.

When I wasn't busy working or studying, I would often walk around town or take a combi (Morelia's VW Van Mini-Bus system) or taxi to various cultural sites including the city library, the government buildings, other buildings of historical interest (ex: Mexican Patriot José Morelos' birthplace and house), or the mercados (open air markets or sometimes housed in large buildings) and did a little exploring.

I almost always felt safe in Morelia because of the very low crime rate. El Centro (downtown) was usually always crowded and bustling. A lot of the side streets just off of Avenida Francisco Madero (Morelia's main downtown street) had numerous mercados with every item imaginable, including food, clothing, leather goods, and electronic items. Mexico is a bargain shopper's paradise!
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